Wednesday, October 19, 2011

River Cruise

Today's activity is to take a "river cruise" It'll be interesting to see what they think is cool.


River cruise is just a large dugout canoe. But with a interesting guide, we went across the Suriname river to Fort Niew Amsterdam (built in 1600's) and then headed up a side river. He took us thru an existing plantation. Met several people who have lived their entire lives there. Products have changed but still run as a large farm/ranch. Some aqua culture (shrimp) cattle veggies etc. The current owner bought the place many years ago. (an old jewish gent who lives in town) First thing he did was sell the land under peoples homes to them for 1 guilder per lot. So many own their own homes and really like the owner. Just interesting to see how people live in little villages in the middle of nowhere. Our guide seemed to know everyone and they all knew him. So we got into see many simple things. People smoking fish. A pet capibara. Monkeys, pets and wild, and much more.

Then we went upstream to another plantation (1789) whicch has been turned into a hotel. But all the old buildings were there, grounds well taken care of and a real feel for an old plantation.

Worthwhile day.

Suriname

Suriname, formerly known as Dutch Guiana, was acquired by the Dutch from the British. (I think in the 1700's) Because things grow so well here (especially sugar cane) the Dutch traded New Amsterdam and Manhattan island for Suriname. The country gained independance in 1975. Not as clean as the french but better than Guiana. In the old town, lots of OLD dutch buildings. I found our church in one of those old buildings. Large population of blacks (escaped and freed slaves) Javanese, Chinese, Indians, (India), Amerindian, and Dutch. All speaking dutch with a caribbean/creol accent. (Chinese is "chinee")

While eating lunch we watched some repair construction on the siding of an old building. We shook our heads at the scaffolding.

Back to Suriname

Liked the trip to French Guyane ? Now you have to come back the same way you came. No air connections between the 2 countries. At least the roads in French Guyane are fairly good. By the way, rolling hills in FG as opposed to the total flatland in Guiana.

And we discovered why the air conditioning in his car was not working well. His alternator did not work so the blower motor didn't have any juice to run.

And when he was done with a drink, he just tossed the empty out the window. We climbed all over him for that. (always seem the natives are the trashy folks, not the visitors) Went by a small river where a fisherman had just caught a nice fish (18 inches) and our driver stopped. Not to show us the fish but he tried to purchase it. We told him we were not going to drive 2 hours in a fishy car.

Lame - do not use Albert for transportation

After another river crossing and teeth ratteling drive we ended the night in Paramariboo, Suriname.

Salvation Islands - Devil's Island

Next day we headed on a one hour boat trip out to the islands. For the non-trivia folks, back many years ago, when countries had lots of inmates, they settled penal colonies away from their countries. That is how much of Australia was settled (and maybe why Australians are so hardy) The French sent their prisoners to French Guyane. Many towns on the mainland had minimum security prisons and some medium. Where are you going to escape to ? The most dangerous and those who kept trying to escape were sent to the islands. (the name Salvation Islands came from a disasterous colonization effort years before and the islands provided life until relief parties came)

The main and administrative island was St. Joseph. There they held prisoners in compounds but they were free during the day to move around the island, they all had jobs, tended gardens, fished, etc. The solitary confinement cells were here. 5 by 8 feet. Over 70% who went into solitary died there. Even speaking with you neighbor was not allowed. Gruel and a piece of bread was put through a tiny door once a day.

The worst of the worst were sent to Devil's Island (one of three islands) Until Papillion (remember the Steve McQueen movie or the book) no one had ever escaped from Devil's Island. The French continued to use this penal colony until the 1950's.

Now if you think I learned a bunch about the islands while there, you would be very wrong. Everything is in french only, tours in french only. descriptive signs and plaques in french only and helpful staff in french only. Lots of natives go out to the islands. When you get just that far from the mainland, the water goes from chocolate to silty green and you can see a few feet into the water. On the north side of Royal Island, there is actually a sand beach instead of mud. Long hot day.

French Guyane

We stayed in the town of Kourou at the the Hotel des Roches. No, not the roach hotel. Hotel on the rocks. It is situated on the point of land where the river enpties into the ocean. By the way, every river and the ocean here is milk chocolate colored. Tons of silt. The motel and the town are very modern and clean (best hotel so far) Most everything you would want is available and several you would not want (McDonalds, etc)

The reason is that Kourou is the center for the european space agency, all their launch pads, control centers and assembly areas are all here.
Trivia - it is much more efficient to launch to space from near the equator than further north. So every launch has foreign dignatories and polititions, etc who are involved in that satellite or mission. When you are showing off, you clean house and make everything look good. The 20 of this month (October, 2011) they are blasting off a satellite with a soviet Soyous rocket so the motel had bunches of Russian speaking folks.

But try to get a waitress to explain the french only menu.

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Travel from hel - oops, travel from heck

Early morning flight from Georgetown, Guyana to Suriname. (no problem so far) Then the "seanic drive" to Kourou, French Guyane. This is where the problems began. We were picked up in a minivan taxi with a "guide" . The van shocks had been shot for years, and so had the road. After 20 minutes, the road disappeared. Ok, it didn't disappear the pavement stoppped and the potholes and wash boards began. And the driver liked to travel at 110 kph to 120 kph. Driving down the middle of the road most of the time, passing anywhere. This is the main road east to west in the country. Erik, think of the road from Honduras to Guatemala.

Finally after 4 hours of gut wrentching jolts, we arrived at the river which forms the border with French Guyane. We left our minivan and driver, took a dugout canoe over the river (Timm, think Marajo Island) And then we were in France. The other countries gained independence earlier in my life but this is still a French colony. And it is FRENCH. Euros only. ATTITUDE. This is France, we not speek de English. (English pig dogs) But it was very clean for litter. Our "guide" picked up his oun car to drive us the 3 hours into the country to hour hotel. (Shar, think Cartegena taxi) On the road he had a tire blow out, AC did not work very well, could hardly understand him. Whew. More later, the line is backing up for the computer.

Kaitour falls






This day we caught an early flight ( a charter plane ) to fly about 1hr 20 minutes into the interior. One of their national parks is Kaitour Falls. Since we had chartered the plane for just the 3 of us, our tour company sent one of their junior associates with us, (we had weight capacity)

Selwin is 23 and a skinny black man. Trying to be very professional in dress and act. But Selwin had never been in an airplane before, much less a small plane. After the safety check, we were off. As soon as we left the ground - you know the feelings that creates - Selwin FREEKED out, screaming like, well like a girl. Travel member Candy was closestst to him and kind of grandmotherly tried to calm him down. Pilot was fairly young but very professional and and meticulous. Pilot ignored Selwin completely. After a while, he started to look around at the countryside. Upon landing, he did just fine.

We took 2 hours at the falls to check out the various viewpoints. Nice falls, about 850 feet high. The falls created a nice breeze, which was well appreciated. Around the falls are often seen Cock-o-the-rock birds and poisonous yellow tree frogs. They live in the water of these plants, but too hot today to be seen. But it was so hot we did not get to see either.

I talked to Selwin about the feelings one has with such an experience and tried to teach him that he could train his body to interperatate the feelings as fear or fun, he can chose. On the way home he did just fine and we had the pilot fly over the city so Selwin could see from the air what his city looks like. (Absolutely no mountains anywhere near here) He especially noticed the harbor bridge and even saw his own house from the air. Selwin came back from out trip more of a man, more confidant and much more experienced. It was fun to be along and experience his change.

Friday, October 14, 2011

Georgetown #1

Got to sleep in until 8 am !

Then met by the 2 ladies from Texas that I will do the rest of the trip with. One from Houston and one from Dallas. Sister in laws. Alice's husband (Candy's brother) died this year so Candy joined Alice on this already planned trip. Alice has been to 141 countries and Candy not far behind. I'm the amateur this trip! Candy's husband is not very keen on travel. But Candy is overweight and has hip and knee problems so I am not slowing anyone down.

Yesterday, we did a Georgetown tour. Some history, museums, markets, etc. as you would expect. The people and the market were the only interesting part. Country is very flat for miles along the coast. Lots and lots of sugarcane growing. Used to make sugar but they hired the Chinese to build the new processing plant and got rid of the old ones. The new one does not work and no one seems to be able to figure out how to make it work. So for years, no one grew cane. But now planting is starting up to make ethanol from the cane. They import sugar. Yeah government.

In the evening our motel was hosting a carokee (ok, I have no idea how to spell it) party. I ended up sitting (and eating dinner) with Jim & Flo from Hollister, CA. Retired attorney and travelers. Nice evening of conversation, and after Venezuela, nice to hear normal english for a while. Lots of conversation about kids, travel and the church. (they have been to SLC and Nauvoo) By the end of the evening Jim referred to me as Bishop Smith! They know many mormons in their community, all well thought of.

Early to bed (I wonder why?)

Travel woes

Did I tell you I lost my razor so when I finally get photos, you might see the white chin appearing.

And I told you I fell at the falls. After the boat ride the knee really stiffened up. Better a bit the next day and better still today. Still can't do stairs.

So the next morning I fly to Trinidad. Guyana and Venezuela are arguing over some land (have been for years) that amounts to about 2/3 of Guyana. Venezuela wants it but international courts keep siding with Guyana. Maybe the bauxite (used for aluminum) and the diamonds have something to do with it!
So, because of that, no direct flights or other border crossings betweeen the 2 countries. Usually only 2 or 3 flights to Georgetown Guyana a day so my lousy connection gave me an 11 hour layover. I am not going to sit in an airport for 11 hours - see other blog.

Grabbed late lunch at the "Roti" restaurant - I'm told very Trinidad food. Some is good, some not so. Wander through through the old downtown with all the street vendors, etc you would expect. I get back to the airport at 5:30 pm for a 6pm check in. Except while was in town my flight was cancelled. Next flight is the next day. Shar would HATE this portion of the trip.

I did get into Georgetown and to the motel and to bed at 3:45am.

Later

Angel Falls

These motel computers!
They are either ancient, VERY foreign, do not have a slot for my camera chip, or, like this one. have a slot but does not recognize my card, so no photos yet.


Isla Raton had a very primitave camp, a pole building with only a roof. A little corner for cooking, makeshift table and benches to eat on, and places to hang hammocks. Many had mosquito bites even with repellent on. Netting was provided for every hammock. (nice, cooperative south american mosquitos acted like Port Angeles ones and totally left me alone)

Went dark by 6 pm so we ate by candlelight and went to bed early - 7pm. Up at 4am for breakfast, packup, crossed the river and hiked up to the falls. Can't actually hike to the falls, but quite close, great vantage points, and a pool where we got to "bathe in the waters of the Angel" (travel brochure language!)

The trail started off like a primitive trail, lots of roots (as you might imagine in a jungle) muddy areas and rocks. Then it deteriorated. The last few miles was just scrambling over the rocks. But what a view point!
Except over the rocks is where I slipped and fell, tweeked my right knee. But still useable. (swelling started later)

I WILL GET PHOTOS ON HERE !

Then another half mile to the pool. By then I was thinking how cold the water would be on my hot sweatty body so I was thinking of passing on a swim. But, realizing this truely was a once in a life opportunity, got in. After the initial shock (many of you know how my middle section hates cold water) it was refreshing and cooled me down very nice.

All too soon, we had to head back down the trail to the waiting boat. The guides had everything packed and down the river we went. As we got to the hiking part, another rain storm. Come on, this is supposed to be the dry season !!! I would call it a flash flood, being from the desert. Parts of the trail were under 2 feet of water running off the savanah. Again, what could be misereable to some travelers was to our group a great, fun, different adventure. (ok, I even thought is was an adventure to get tear gassed in Cuzco)

Back to camp, quick change to dry clothes and across the lagoon to town and walk to the airport to fly back to civilization.

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Travel problems

One problem with travel is that you are at the mercy of others. My tour agency put me on a lousy connection from Caracas to Port-O-Span, Trinidad to Georgetown Guyana. Up at 4:45 am and to the airport. Under 2 hours & I'm in Trinidad! But my connection flight is in 11 hours.

So after doing some checking, I catch the 80 cent, 35 minute bus into town. (taxi costs $35) In town I just hung out, went through a bunch of the old town and street vendors, etc. Found an internet shop to do yesterday's update, and went looking for a wedding ring.

Ok, considering where I will be going, I decided to leave my ring at home and when I got to a country where silver is reasonable, get a silver one to wear. I went to 5 shops looking for my size and the narrow one I like. No one has it. But the last shop lady says "I can make one in 30 minutes" OK, how much ?

So for $18 I have a silver wedding band.

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Venezuela



In the south east part of Venezuela is the crown jewel of Venezuela's national parks. Caniama.
(say Caw - ni' - ma) Included are the Tupuy ( two- poo' - e), the table top mountains / mesas. They go up to 3-4,000 feet abouve the jungle floor. Pretty amazing to look at. In the villiage of Canaima, I stayed at a "camp" at the logoon. 5 waterfalls drop into the lagoon. The camp has some private cabanas but I stayed in the group area, under cover but out in the open. Had lunch with my group and the group just leaving. So lunch with Thor the Dane and his Japanese girlfriend, 2 Chinese, 4 from Spain (they have interesting accents) 4 Venezuelans and me. Oh, did I mention that Thor was black ?

That afternoon, we went to a nearby waterfall, Salto Sapo. The really cool thing was that a trail was made UNDER THE WATERFALL! And yes, you get drenched. Really amazing and was good for bonding the new group together. We came back to camp soaked and having a great time. Photos of Salto Sapo are limited since I had trouble with the new camera. But problem solved for the next part of the trip.

Next morning we had breakfast and went into town to see the "native village". Looked to me just like a small town in latin america, (Shar, think Nicargua) Then we went above the falls and loaded into a big dugout canoe. We had over 50 miles to go upstream. (the 40 hp Yamaha helped a lot)

At one stage we had to get out and walk over a savanah because the rapids are too difficult with the canoe loaded. About a 3 mile walk, after which we threw ourselves into the river until the canoe came.

Then up the river mile after mile. Got exciting a few times when the engine sputtered in the middle of a rapids, but just as panic was starting, the engine kicked in. (even the guide was starting to react) Further river, the Tupuy started to appear. (Think So. Utah canyons and cliffs)

Then it started to rain. I thought I knew what rain was. Think Forks on steroids. A half hour later, it was still coming down. Everything was soaked. Everyone except me was shivering and goose bumps. I was finally cool !

The end of the boat ride was the primative camp on Isla Raton. Island of the Rat. :)

But from camp you could see it. Angel Falls ! Photos and more to come. Plane to catch.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Starting a trip





















Went to seattle -Friday night. Got in and checked into the hotel. Killed some time then went to the Paramount.



So, obviously I can't get the photos to go where I want them to go. Tough being a dino. in this tech world.










The Blue Man Group is certainly entertaining. Right from the start they had the audience involved. Strange how you can put on a 100 minute show and never say a word. The looks they give each other and the audience are just great. (yeah you had to be there)

Early flight out of Seatac. Took the light rail from Westlake right to the airport. $ 2.75 such a deal. THIS flight left on time to Chicago - Saw Kellis house even ! By northern Idaho, it was totally clouded over all the way to the Dakotas. Then clear (ok, kind of hazy, to Chicago. The next flight was delayed and delayed. By the time we got to Miami, we were 2 plus hours late. Which would mean I missed my flight to Caracas, but it was delayed also. So instead of arriving at 11:15 it was after 2 am. But my contact was there (she checked the schedule, so she did not waste her time) Wake up and to the airport at 4:30 am.

Can you say short night ?

This computer does not recoginize my camera chips, maybe the next one will. And I have to read the keyboard by screen light and it is a stupid keyboard that has things in weird places so I keep making mistakes.

Tomorrow to Port of Spain Trinidad. 5am rise, that{s not bad.

Saturday, October 8, 2011

So

I'm going to give this a try for my trip. Keeps people updated (and keeps me from hand writing it)

Shar took me to the Bainbridge ferry at 3:50 pm on Friday, Oct 7th. Walked on and then walked to the Sixth Ave Inn. I have an early flight so I figured I might as well use a Seattle Hotel. While checking out hotels on-line, I discovered the

BLUE MAN GROUP is in Seattle at the Paramount Theater !

So I went last night. They put on a good show. Some parts made me think of THE FAR SIDE. Who thinks of these things ? It was fun. Loud and action packed. Definitely recommended.

Afterward I stayed around for a while, and sure enough, the Blue Men came into the foyer and allowed photos and I got my ticket "autographed" Thank you Doug Beattie for the heads up!

Off to Seatac !

(no photos yet, can't download them at this hotel)